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Instead, he is a keen cook and diligent researcher. In spring, Brenya-Mensa will launch his first restaurant, Tatale, at London’s Africa Centre.īrenya-Mensa stresses that he is not a chef. Previously, while running a club and event production company from Sheffield, he launched burger brand Juicy Kitchen, which graduated from street food markets to catering at big events. Those adventures fed into the 2019 launch of supperclub Mensa, Plates & Friends. People would say: ‘I looked this up or saw this on Anthony Bourdain.’” Initially, I’d go on my own, to smaller chef-owned places so I’d be able to speak to people. Soon to turn 40, Brenya-Mensa spent years on the road with his job, eating his way around the world from Seoul to Soweto: “Food is an integral part of people’s culture and I’d immerse myself. Photograph: Amit Lennon for Observer Food Monthly Holly O'NeillĪkwasi Brenya-Mensa’s restaurant, Tatale, opens in London in spring. “I’m even mad enough to see if I can grow sesame, but it’s a plant that needs very long summers and I’m 700 metres above sea level here – it snows,” says Tan, laughing at the challenges and possibilities.
“I want to teach people that Asian food has seasonality, that’s close to my heart.” For that thunder-tea rice Tan explains that his greenhouse can’t yet can’t grow enough of the tea he needs, so he’ll teach his students it’s OK to use silverbeet or kale. The fruit will be used in his classes, maybe in a Chinese soup. Tan is especially proud of his kitchen garden, especially his ballerina apple tree. “As long as people go home and feel happy and empowered about what they have learned, then I’ve achieved something.”
He may see people who want help deciphering and refining family recipes, or teach chefs looking to further their skills. “Yesterday I had a group of people here who were a bit gung ho, slapping the dumplings around,” he says. The school has only just opened properly and Tan welcomes cooks of all abilities. The central space is a light-filled kitchen with a 5-metre island counter that Tan teaches from. His home is also the Tony Tan Cooking School, envisaged as a centre for Asian food excellence. In 2019, he moved to Trentham, a 90-minute drive north-west of the city.
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He owned restaurants, a cooking school, led food tours, appeared on TV and wrote. In the 1970s, he moved to Melbourne to study history, but instead became involved in its food scene. Tan was born in Malaysia to a Chinese family who owned restaurants. Tony Tan, whose cooking school is now open. “I really wanted to treat them to a proper slice of home.” Holly O'Neill “I have so many Balkan customers now,” she says.
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Called Doma, which means “home” in many Slavic languages, the dinner was the first in a series that will celebrate eating seasonally. Dinkovski continually draws inspiration from how she likes to eat, which means that the Mystic Börek bakes have never been entirely authentic, but earlier this month she went back to her grandmother’s recipe book for her first totally traditional dinner. “I’ve been working alone for so long it’s nice to build a community,” she says.
In the meantime, collaborations with other chefs allow her to twist her Balkan flavours with other cuisines and have some company in the kitchen. Nationwide delivery is a little way off, but she has restaurant pop-ups planned outside the capital.
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In August 2020 she launched Mystic Börek: customers would order her golden, flaky pies, both layered and spiral, over Instagram, then collect from her and her trolley at designated points around London.īy March 2021 Dinkovski had moved into a professional kitchen and was delivering across London. Having worked for 15 years in other people’s food businesses, including OFM-favourite Bodega Rita’s, she decided to focus on her own, based around perfecting her favourite treat made by her Macedonian grandmother. For Spasia Dinkovski, the early days of lockdown were a time of opportunity.
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